Tuesday 28 July 2015

St Goar to Koblenz, The last of the Middle Rhine Valley.

Arrived in St Goar in cloudy weather so The Rheinfels Castle and Fortress was not looking as stunning as it could be.

 DSCN4222 Rheinfels Castle and FortressDSCN4281 Rheinfels Castle and Fortress.Rheinfels CastleTook a tour around the Medieval Castle fortress, and we got a bit lost in the tunnels and fortifications but enjoyed ourselves. When they say take a flash light, it means you need it. Lucky we had our trusty i-phone. !!I                                                                                                We get a bit lost in all the Castle history around here because European history is so convoluted and complicated. The first castle to be erected here was in 1245, and again was blown up, extended, sold, swapped or won in battle all the way through the years.

DSCN4232DSCN4233DSCN4234 Huge wine cellar. that held a barrel if wine holding 200,000 litres for the Garrison.DSCN4246

The huge wine cellar, that used to hold a wine barrel of 200,000 litres for the Garrison, and tunnels. 

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St Goar has an amazing Stein shop, ( where max had to get a souvenir !! ) and a really fun Cuckoo Clock Shop, and then a Pizza night out.DSCN4226 Amazing Cuckoo Clock Shop.DSCN4278

View of the Marina from the Fortress, ( we are in the front of the bar, on the left.)          and how close can you moor to a bar!!!!! (note, the small glass of wine)DSCN4231 Veiw of the 'Funboat' Marina.DSCN4272 Funboat Marina Bar

After 2 days we left St Goar. The river didn’t seem to be running as fast so we just trotted along at a modest 15 knots, passing more castles on the way.  ‘’ Maus Castle’’DSCN4284 Maus CastleMaus Castle ( Deuernburg)

Marksburg.

DSCN4307DSCN4309 Marksburg

And other sights ..(advertising has a lot to answer for )..His horn was a cow mooing.DSCN4304

Stolzenfels Castle was definitely one of the most stunning and well looked after we saw on the river. We didn’t visit but it is said that the castle is, in general, richly filled with evidence of aristocratic residential culture thereby representing a monument of the ending era of historism. ( now that was a mouthful )

DSCN4312DSCN4319 Stolzenfels CastleDSCN4315 Stolzenfels Castle

Then arriving into KOBLENZ., Ehrenbreitstein Fortress & The Deutsches Eck.DSCN4327 Ehrenbreitshein FortressDSCN4330The Romans first built a castle here in 260 on the confluence of the two rivers,The Moselle and The Rhine, with a city wall with 19 high towers, It remained the town fortification until the middle ages. Then with all the European wars, ownership swung between Prussia, France and Germany. In 1815 it became the Capital of the Prussian Rhine Province, and was expanded into the largest fortress and garrison town in the Reich. The fortress, Ehrenbreitshein , was built between 1815-1833 up above the Rhine. DSCN4372DSCN4329DSCN4394

Unfortunately Kolbenz was flattened during the war and little old stuff is left. They have rebuilt much of the town but it isn’t the same.  The original statue of Kaiser Wilhelm 1, called ‘’Wilhelm the Great’’ was erected in 1897. At the end of the war, in 1945, the Americans shot the bronze Kaiser off the base, and from 1953 only a mast with the German flag stood there. It took between 1985-1993 to sort a replica Kaiser that was finally erected in the original spot overlooking the rivers..

We went up in the cable car to visit the Fortress. Not much to see of the old buildings, cannons etc.  as it was bombed, but nice views and a Museum of all the Play Mobil children toys ever made.

DSCN4378DSCN4380DSCN4382DSCN4383DSCN4387DSCN4391DSCN4358Fat lady in bikini on wall waiting to jump!!!

Met up again with Robert & Sue ( from ChCh ), and boys playing tootsie in their red shoes and the amazingly sized value for money meals in the yacht club.!

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Lovely mooring on the River Moselle and lots of water sports going on. Paddle boarding, sail boats of all sizes, rowers and little steam boats. And lovely to swim in. We assume that the biggest gives way to the smallest, regardless what you are!!!DSCN4334DSCN4420

Not always a lot of wind though, and against a slow flow, you have to be sly.!!DSCN4402

DSCN4401And the Big hotel boats and barges are still with us on the Moselle river , but luckily nothing like this have we seen yet!!!!photo (3)

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Another of many good nights with the Coppers, and then off  up the Moselle River towards Cochem and Trier, where we have decided to take the River Saar back to Toul, as we have already done the high bit of the Moselle and the city of Metz.

Just behind the yacht club, in the middle of Koblenz, a combine harvester!!!     And a picture of our nest in Strasbourg mentioned on the last blog, they have hatched!! Now has little babies ( courtesy of Francois & Sylvie.)

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Friday 17 July 2015

Rudesheim and the start of the Middle Rhine Valley.

Since 2002 this area down to Koblenz has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, winding down the sides of the river for approx 66kms. It is dotted along both sides with castles and ruins dating back to 800, where different eras have added bits to them making them a total mixture of Carolingian(800), Romanesque(1050-1250), Gothic(1150-1450), Renaissance(1420-1600), Baroque(1600-1770), Classical(1770-1830), and New gothic(1700-1900).. roughly!!!. With all the bloody, cruel wars that have raged through this area we are surprised anything is left standing.. (here endeth the history lesson).

RUDESHEIM is a lovely lively town, full of beautiful old houses, a lot of them half timber, bars, cafes, music and lots of flowers. Even with lots of cruise ships stopping it doesn’t seem to make it crowded. We caught the Cable car up to see The Niederwald Monument, Bronze,38m tall, erected to symbolise the re-establishment of the German Empire following end of Prussian War in 1871. ( Only weighs 32 ton.!!) The centre piece is called Germania. Then we walked through the forest around to the other side of the hill and caught the slowest chair lift we have ever been on, down to Assmannshausen, had lunch, then ferry over to see the Rudesheim Castle, and back up-stream to Rudesheim.

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DSCN3972 GermaniaDSCN3976

DSCN4008                                                     This signs reads..HOW CLASSY GIRLS GET WASTED..

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Across on the ferry …….to Rheinstein Castle.

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DSCN4037The Coat of Arms.

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DSCN4049DSCN4056DSCN4071 Burg RheinsteinDSCN4073

Back in Rudesheim, passing very steep vines and Castle Ehrenfels.

 DSCN4080 Burg EhrenfelsDSCN4023 Very steep vines

Met some neat new Kiwi friends, by actually unknowingly parking in their reserved spot in Rudesheim. Due to our size only a few marinas can take us easily as most are designed for smaller speed type boats. (( heh heh )) , Drinks with  Robert & Sue Cooper, ( ChCh ) and their guests Merv & Wendy, and Max..

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Max in his usual fashion decided to cycle up a huge hill(without me) and visit a Monastery that still has the Nuns making a tidy profit out of making\selling their wine and other products. He didn’t stay long enough for a confession though.

The Benedictine Abbey St Hildegard.

DSCN4112DSCN4116 Abbey St Hildergard

Rudesheim like every German town has Christmas decoration shops everywhere.. in Summer!!! The Germans love Christmas.

DSCN4091DSCN4088DSCN4089DSCN4093 Rudesheim

The barge behind us is the Club Bar, and we met a really nice German couple, Kurt & Beata (a pilot & Hostess for Lufthansa).  AND the boat next to us—we thought they should really change the name.!!

DSCN4167 Couldnt get much closer to the Clubhouse.DSCN4118 Not a good name for a boat!!

We had cycled the 26 kms down to St Goar  two days previously and stopped at Bacharach, a beautiful town on the left bank, and despite all the old old houses and castles around us we still managed to find a Lidl.(our favourite shop)..  Just like to say, Max cycled back and it took him about 1.40mins. I caught the ferry back ( up stream) and it took me 3 hrs!

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DSCN4133DSCN4140DSCN4139DSCN4142 Bacharach

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Couldn’t leave on Sunday as the marina was closed as the ‘’’Riesling Man ‘’ triathlon was being staged.  They swam from the end of the pontoon in bunches of 50.

DSCN4119 'Reisling Man' TriathalonDSCN4122 The swimmers

Finally left RUDESHEIM and we wanted a slow journey through the valley down to St GOAR. to enjoy the scenery but unfortunately the weather was overcast and our camera didn’t do any justice to the views.

The Rhine runs the fastest through this bit, faster than before, and although the boat said we were at 8.5 knots, & 1800 revs , our marking off said we were going an average speed of 19.5 knots down the 26 kms. That’s so cool !!!!     I am going to miss this when we are back to 6 knots on the canals.

On the boat, leaving Rudeshein, down towards St Goar and Koblenz.

So first, Castle Ehrenfels.                         Rheinstein Castle ( which we visited)DSCN4080 Burg EhrenfelsDSCN4030

Reichenstein Castle                                Sooneck Castle ( not our photo)Reichenstein CastleSooneck Castle (2)

Heimburg                                                 Stahleck CastleDSCN4185 Heimburg CastleDSCN4130 Stahleck Castle

Pfalzgrafenstein Castle(actually on an island in the river) and Gutenfels Castle on the hill.

DSCN4202 Kaub, Pfalzgrafenstein Castle. and Gutenfels Castle up on the Hill.

Gutenfels Castle..from the river showing the town on the water frontDSCN4205 Kaub, Burg Gutnfels

Schonburg high up above Oberwesel, , with the ever present camping sites along the river.

DSCN4208 Burg Schonburg, Oberwesel

Katz Castle, as is and a painting from a sketch from 1607.DSCN4216 Castle Katz, St GoarshausenKatz Castle, known as Schlofs Cattenelenbogen in 1607. (painitng from a sketch)

And past the ‘’Seven virgins’’ ( Die 7 Jungfrauen) The 7 large rocks the  Loreley straight, in the middle of the river, that have sunken many a boat, and the statue, Loreley, who sings and lures them into their graves.. Apparently if you sing yourself as you pass her, the spell is broken,, BUT we missed her altogether and had to get a post card,.

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And finally St GOAR,  and Rheinfels Castle and Fortress. Which we visited in the next blog……We did miss a couple of castles so this isn’t a full picture of all of them.

.DSCN4223 Rheinfels Castle.